How to lighten hair without bleach, straight from the pros
Wondering how to lighten your hair without bleach is a common musing among hair dye enthusiasts. Because even if you aren’t putting your hair through the wringer with excessive chemical processing or regular hot tool use, bleach can still do enough damage (it weakens the strand, can compromise your hair’s natural structure, make your hair very dry, etc.) that you start to regret getting your hair coloured in the first place.
But there is a happy medium if you’re looking to go lighter with your next hair colour. See what the experts had to say about lightening your hair without bleach below.
Is it possible to lighten your hair without bleach?
Technically, yes, it is possible. But there are a few things to consider. “There are limits to how much lift you can achieve depending on your natural hair colour and if you have had your hair previously coloured,” says celebrity colourist Cass Kaeding. “The biggest difference is that beach can remove much more pigment from the hair and lift multiple levels, while bleach-free methods gently soften natural pigment.”
Another thing to consider is the state of your hair. Lightening without bleach is best with your natural state. “Only on virgin hair,” says Emaly Baum, celebrity colourist and founder of Beauty Supply. “Colour can’t lift colour, so if your hair has any previous colour (even semi-permanent) on it, colour alone won’t be able to lift it out.”
Best ways to lighten hair without bleach
So if you’re starting with healthy and natural hair, there are three main methods to turn to when trying to lighten your hair without bleach:
High-Lift
Kaeding’s go-to, a high-lift permanent hair colour lifts natural pigment while depositing new colour. “They can usually lighten virgin hair about three to five levels without using bleach,” she says. “[And it] can be used while foiling and [getting] balayage highlights.”
Permanent Hair Colour
Permanent hair colour, as Baum explains it, is when ammonia opens the hair cuticle and deposits new pigment. Kaeding goes on to explain that this method will provide moderate lift.
Semi-Permanent lift
Baum says that semi-permanent colour will add vibrancy to your hair by just sitting on top of your natural colour. “[It adds] intense shine and light reflection, which can trick the eye into looking lighter than your starting level,” she says.
Which method you go for will depend on your desired outcome. If you’re looking to go three to five shades lighter, the high-lift may be the right fit for you, for example. And you’ll want to consider your starting colour base. Very dark hair shades will most likely need bleach to go drastically lighter, so for any questions on how to safely lighten your hair, be sure to consult your go-to stylist.
How to maintain lightened hair so it lasts
Kaeding says that the best way to maintain lightened hair sans the bleach is with a colour-safe, sulfate-free shampoo. She also recommends washing hair less frequently, avoiding excessive heat styling, and booking a deep conditioning treatment, gloss, and/or toner at your salon for best upkeep.
When you should seek a professional instead
Kaeding advises that you avoid trying to lighten your hair without bleach if your hair is already damaged, over-processed, or breaking. If your hair has been chemically straightened or permed, has multiple layers of permanent colour, or if your hair has been box dyed, she says it’s probably best to ask a professional.
“If you’re looking for a subtle, sun-kissed effect or to brighten your natural colour by a few shades, bleach-free methods can work well and are generally gentler on the hair. [But] if your goal is a dramatic blonde transformation or correcting previously coloured hair, professional lightening is the safest and most reliable path,” she says.
“Just because you’re not using bleach doesn’t mean you’re not using chemicals,” agrees Baum. “I’d suggest consulting a hair colourist before jumping into anything that could turn into a long, tedious, and expensive salon colour correction.”
This article first appeared on Vogue.com
