Fashion week shows can bring guests to the wildest of far-flung locations—alleyways, defunct banks, helicopter pads—but it’s always a refreshing surprise when it’s somewhere glamorous. Tonight, Sergio Hudson chose the art deco Rainbow Room at 30 Rock to unveil his new spring collection. The sweeping city views and grand ballroom space even came with a pre-show cocktail hour, like something out of an old James Bond film. And that was a fitting choice, given Bond served as a major inspiration for his new lineup this season. “It’s James Bond reversed,” said Hudson shortly before the show started. “The woman is the agent, and the man is the ingenue. I wanted very strong, sexy silhouettes taking charge of the runway. The man is secondary.”
Of course, Hudson does powerful and sexy silhouettes best, so it wasn’t an unlikely direction for him. Known for his sharp tailoring and clean, commanding lines, his pieces lend themselves to a woman in charge. His opening look saw a model come in on a mission: She donned a sharp-shoulder red blazer with a structured red dress underneath, complete with a high leg slit. A sweeping chiffon headscarf trailed behind her. If she were a secret agent trying to go undercover, this look would definitely blow her cover and get her some admiring attention.
What followed was Hudson doubling down on his best-sellers. It was clearly a commercial collection aimed to sell, less about shaking things up and experimenting, and in this economy, there’s nothing wrong with that. His skirt suits were cut to perfection and one came with a neon-green piping and lining. His simple bodycon sleeveless dresses were in punchy oranges or cobalt blues. And naturally, there were plenty of low-cut jumpsuits—a signature of both Hudson and virtually any Bond girl.
Hudson’s menswear, which has slowly been expanding, was a continued exercise in refinement. Instead of traditional suits, he showed silky tees and trousers—in solid white or black—with wrap-tied belts or cummerbunds. His evening jackets were in punchier yellow or purple satins. It’s always refreshing to see men’s offerings that don’t play it boringly safe.
But it was Hudson’s evening offerings that were the most showstopping. At the end, a strapless gunmetal-gray silky gown with a sheer chiffon stole stole the show—as did the fine jewelry choker worn with it, which served as Hudson’s first foray into designing diamonds. Yes, they were real diamonds, and lots of them: Security guards flanked the room, ready for any Bond impersonators trying to pull off an impossible heist.