Zinc in skincare is something that you commonly hear about. It is often used to repair the skin barrier from irritation, to control acne, and for sun protection. It is one of the more fascinating skincare ingredients, as your body cannot produce zinc on its own. You must keep absorbing it from food, supplements or topical creams, as it is essential for cellular regeneration, immune function and skin health.
Your skincare shelves are filled with an influx of complex skincare ingredients. Niacinamide, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, tea tree oil and more are some skincare ingredients that provide similar benefits to those of zinc. Yet skincare experts and dermatologists think of zinc as an ultimate multitasking maintenance crew for the skin. “It can protect skin from UV, calm intense inflammatory activity, manage excess oil and support the exact environment damaged skin needs to repair itself,” says Prachi Bhandari, a licensed cosmetologist and co-founder of Aminu.
How is zinc beneficial in skincare?
Zinc is far more than just a chalky sunscreen mineral, according to Dr Kiran Sethi, a dermatologist and skin and longevity expert based in New Delhi. It is a heavy hitter in cellular longevity and dermatological health. “Human skin is the third-most zinc-rich organ in the body, containing roughly 5% of our total systemic zinc. At a cellular level, zinc acts as an essential co-factor involved in DNA repair and tissue regeneration.”
“It helps heal a compromised skin barrier, whether from harsh topical agents or environmental stress,” says Dr Santhosi SV, dermatologist at Neothera. “Zinc accelerates the healing process by helping cells rebuild and synthesise collagen. Finally, it functions as an antioxidant by neutralising the daily free radical damage from pollution and UV light that leads to premature ageing.”
While zinc is versatile in nature, it acts as a hero ingredient when it comes to treating skin concerns such as rosacea and premature skin ageing, repairing the damaged skin barrier and healing acne-prone and oily skin. “If your skin is overproducing oil and is affected by hormones and stubborn hyperpigmentation, zinc is the non-negotiable ingredient you want in your routine,” adds Bhandari.
What are the different types of zinc used in skincare?
There are three major types of zinc derivatives: zinc oxide, zinc PCA and zinc gluconate. “Zinc oxide is an insoluble powder designed to sit on the surface of your skin to act as a biological pacifier and UV shield,” explains Bhandari. “This makes it the gold standard for sun protection, rosacea and melasma.” “Zinc PCA is great for acne-prone and oily skin. It moisturises your skin deeply, dragging the zinc along with it to shut down the enzymes causing hormonal oil production.”
Lastly, zinc gluconate is a highly water-soluble substance specifically used for healing. “It acts as the direct metabolic fuel for your enzymes that need to stitch the tissue back together,” says Bhandri.
How often should you use zinc?
According to Dr SV, it can and should be used every day, especially if zinc oxide is part of your sun care. She advises that zinc PCA serums and daily moisturisers can be used twice daily for maintaining clear skin. However, if you are using an intensive, thick zinc barrier cream, apply it twice or thrice per week and only when your barrier feels sensitive or compromised.
Who should avoid zinc?
“Zinc is a bio-identical trace element, meaning actual allergic hypersensitivity is exceptionally rare,” explains Dr Sethi. However, you should be cautious in two cases.
If you have extremely dry skin types, then unbuffered zinc can be quite contrasting and drying. “If used in a matte or drying vehicle without adequate emollients, it can temporarily compromise a severely dry skin barrier,” she says. “Some physical zinc sunscreens use heavy silicones or comedogenic lipids to suspend the mineral. It is usually the vehicle, not the zinc itself, that causes issues like clogged pores.”