What is the difference between retinol and retinal – and which should you be using?
There may be just one letter difference between them, but retinol and retinal are actually two distinct forms of retinoids. While they both fall under the umbrella term that encompasses the vitamin A derivatives, these easily confused ingredients work differently on the skin and have different potencies, which could mean that you are not using the correct one for your skin type.
To understand how they work, it requires delving into the science of it all, namely how retinoic acid, the functional molecule that the skin uses, is formed. “Think of vitamin A as a journey through your skin. It starts as retinyl esters, converts to retinol, then to retinal (retinaldehyde) and finally becomes retinoic acid (tretinoin), which is the form your skin actually uses,” explains medical aesthetics practitioner Dr Kaywaan Khan. “Retinoic acid is what does the real work, binding to receptors within skin cells and helping to regulate cell turnover, so the skin gradually appears smoother and fine lines become less visible.”
Below, with the help of two experts, Vogue deep dives into the ingredients to showcase how they work and which may be better suited to your needs.
What is the difference between retinol and retinal?
Retinoids are the umbrella term for a category of effective, high-performance ingredients that encompass both retinol and retinal. They are considered the gold standard in anti-ageing skincare for renewal and rejuvenation, but what do they do? The hero components “work on multiple levels to encourage cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, smooth texture and reduce pigmentation to leave skin looking brighter, fresher and more even,” explains Dr Munir Somji.
Where the two differ is the number of steps that it takes to convert into retinoic acid, the active form that the skin uses. “Retinal only requires one conversion step, meaning it gets to work more quickly and delivers results faster because it’s more readily available to the skin,” he continues.
These are just two forms of retinoids, but there are over a dozen – tretinoin and adapalene included. Retinol and retinal are two of the gentlest and so, they are the most accessible and can be found over-the-counter. Many of the others have to be prescribed. “Prescription tretinoin still has the strongest scientific evidence for treating photoageing, but retinol and retinal can also deliver meaningful improvements with consistent use,” Dr Khan confirms.
Which is more effective for treating signs of ageing?
When considering which is more effective, it is not simply a case of which is more potent or works faster, as this only matters if you can be consistent with usage. Should you be able to more easily tolerate retinol, it will be more effective as you will be able to use it regularly. However, retinal is known to produce results in a speedier fashion (although formulation and concentration play into this too). The experts agree. Dr Somji verifies, “Both ingredients are excellent for tackling signs of ageing, but retinal is slightly faster. Because it converts into its active form more efficiently, it can produce visible improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone and skin firmness more quickly than retinol. That said, consistency is far more important than choosing the ‘strongest’ product. A retinol that’s used regularly over several months will often outperform a retinal that’s applied inconsistently because it’s causing irritation.”
Dr Khan adds, “If you rank vitamin A treatments by the strength of evidence behind them, the order is pretty clear. Prescription tretinoin sits at the top, followed by retinal, then retinol and finally, retinyl esters.”
How long does it typically take to see results with each?
As is the case with most aspects of beauty, consistency is crucial to seeing results. But the experts both detail that you may see noticeable results in just a few weeks of regular use. “Skincare isn’t an overnight fix, so patience is key,” stresses Dr Somji. “Most people begin noticing improvements in skin texture and radiance after around eight to 12 weeks, while collagen production and reductions in fine lines can take three to six months.” Dr Khan adds that the most dramatic transformation will take longer, “often between 12 and 24 months of regular application.”
However, he advises that if irritation occurs, “it’s better to use your retinoid less frequently or at a lower strength rather than pushing through redness or peeling. Your skin will adapt better this way, and you’ll get better long-term results.”
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Are there skin concerns where retinol is a better choice than retinal?
Due to the harsh nature of these actives, those with sensitive skin may find incorporating them as part of their skincare routines can cause irritation. This, says Dr Somji, is also dependent on “the strength of the product, the formulation and how quickly you introduce it.”
As for which form is better suited to each skin type, “Retinol and retinyl esters are genuinely excellent choices for people with sensitive skin or anyone new to vitamin A,” Dr Khan tells us. “Prescription tretinoin is the strongest option, but it is also the most likely to cause irritation, particularly if introduced too quickly or without professional guidance.”
That being said, modern formulations layer these potentially irritating ingredients with skin-loving heroes to minimise a reaction. “Many over-the-counter products are cleverly formulated with barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides, panthenol and humectants, which makes them much easier to tolerate,” he reveals.
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What strength should beginners start with?
Slow and steady should always be the approach. “Start low, go slow, and increase frequency before you increase strength; this lets your skin build tolerance naturally without getting overwhelmed,” emphasises Dr Khan. While every product is different in terms of formulation and concentration, Dr Somji shares a rough guide: “For retinol, a concentration of around 0.2 per cent to 0.3 per cent is usually a sensible starting point, whereas for retinal, concentrations of 0.05 per cent are often well tolerated by beginners.”
What are the side effects of each and how can you reduce them?
The very normal and common side effects of retinoids are dryness, redness, peeling and temporary irritation, which usually occurs in the first weeks. “This is often referred to as the retinisation phase, where the skin is adapting to increased cell turnover,” Dr Somji tells us. The way to minimise these side effects is the slow approach mentioned above, but that is not all you can do. While also gradually introducing, he also says to “use only a pea-sized amount for the whole face and apply it to completely dry skin and follow with a nourishing moisturiser to help support the skin barrier. If your skin feels particularly sensitive, reducing how often you apply it for a couple of weeks usually allows the irritation to settle.”
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Dr Khan doubles down on supporting retinol usage with the rest of your skincare routine spotlighting ingredients like ceramides to calm and nourish. He adds, “Ingredients like hyaluronic acid help keep your skin hydrated, while niacinamide and panthenol really help strengthen your skin barrier and reduce discomfort.” In this adjustment window, it is also worth avoiding ingredients or steps that may cause further irritation, like other strong acids and exfoliants. Retinoid application should always be followed by SPF the following morning.
When and how often should each be used when first introducing them into a routine?
In line with the low and slow dictum, “Starting conservatively isn’t a limitation; it’s actually your best route to long-term success,” Dr Khan reveals. With this in mind, retinol once a week is a great starting point. As your skin adapts, you can then increase the frequency to twice a week and then every other night. Applying at night is crucial as the ingredient can cause sun sensitivity.
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Can retinol or retinal be used with vitamin C, niacinamide or hyaluronic acid?
Both niacinamide and hyaluronic acid are ingredients that the experts recommend pairing with retinol to support the skin barrier and hydrate, making both retinol and retinal more tolerable. Vitamin C is slightly more complicated as it can also cause irritation. For this reason, Dr Khan advises those prone to sensitivities to put its usage on pause while your skin adapts so as not to overwhelm it. Dr Somji adds that you can then use retinol or retinal at night and vitamin C in the morning for antioxidant protection for a conservative approach.
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Should you use SPF with both?
This is the number one rule with retinoids: you must always follow with SPF the following morning. “You should wear daily broad-spectrum SPF regardless of whether you use retinoids, but it becomes even more important when you’re using vitamin A products,” flags Dr Khan. “Retinoids increase skin turnover and help improve the visible signs of sun damage, such as pigmentation and fine lines, so consistent SPF use is essential to protect that progress and prevent new damage from undoing it. Without it, you’re essentially working against yourself.” Dr Somji recommends at least SPF30 but “SPF50 is preferable if you’re spending time outdoors.”
Can retinol or retinal be used year-round?
There is a myth with retinoids that they shouldn’t be used in the summer months, but the experts both say that this is not the case. They agree that retinol and retinal products can be used all year round. Less a question of seasonality and more about a smart approach, Dr Khan says the key to success is to “introduce them gradually, watch for irritation and use proper sun protection. What I’ve found in practice is that the most successful retinoid routine isn’t necessarily the strongest one. It’s the one you can actually stick with consistently over months and years. It’s important to remember that sustainable skincare beats aggressive skincare every single time.”
d’you embrace
